The Fashion of the 1930s

The fashion of the 1930s can be summed up in one word: femininity. Katrin DuPre offers a brief overview of the trends as the background to a more detailed study of design and designers during the decade.

I recall it because I was aghast at the way she so casually referred to the practise of wrapping a young girl's breasts as flat as possible to conform her figure to the sort of straightness and flatness that the boyish frame the fashions of the 1920s demanded.

I recall it because I have never been so grateful to see the end of a fashion trend in my entire life.

One of the main reasons I love the fashion of the 1930s is that everyone took off their flattening bands and began to - erm - 'show forth that which had been hidden'. In short, the boyish silhouette of the 1920s was replaced by the voluptuous, glamorous, utterly feminine female figure of thirties fashion.

Busts blossomed, waists were highlighted not hidden, shoulders stretched and everything feminine, curvy and figure highlighting was suddenly de rigeur once again.

It was an age of tidy practicality by day and shining glamour by night. But feminine elegance was essential whatever the time of day or night.

The daytime wardrobe was dominated by the calf length cross cut bias skirt, (Pioneered by Madame Vionnet) which highlighted the waist, hugged the hips and flowed elegantly full around the knees.

Rayon, cotton and fine wool crepes were popular fabrics although the immortal box pleat tweed skirt (or suit) became a very practical favourite too - especially as out-of-town country wear.

And who could forget the famous, most figure flattering item of them all? Yes, the swing jacket was a 1930s fashion favourite that had stood the test of time. It is now 70 years on and my local shops still carry variations on this theme practically every season.

Hemlines were often asymmetrical, most popularly being longer at the back than at the front. As the decade wore on, hemlines slowly descended downwards until, by 1938, the pencil skirt was right at the bottom of the calves and girls were tottering along struggling to take a 12 inch step.

Necklines were often modest during the day - not too many upper arms or shoulders were on show either for most ladies. 1930s fashion designers generally preferred to encase a shoulder in a puff sleeve or, later in the decade, highlight it with a dazzling array of enormous shoulder pads (a hallmark of the Italian designer Elsa Schiaparelli) rather than showing them off with sleeveless tops.

It was all part of enhancing the feminine mystique you know!

But come six o'clock, the principles of practicality, hard lines and good sense were cast aside in a parade of silver and gold lame, silks, sequins and glass beads for evenings of unrestrained glamour.

Hemlines dropped to the floor; the cross cut bias skirt remained but lighter, more flowing fabrics made it softer, even more elegant - and sensuous - than any day skirt; fish tail backs and trains stretched the line of a gown at the bottom while plunging necklines, halter necks and cowl necks revealed quite a lot of skin at the top.

All that 'feminine mystique' built up during the day seems to have vanished in the evening and metemorphosed into the "mystical feminine"!

While all that was going on, heels were getting higher, hair was going up, hats were getting more elaborate and accessories were proliferating rapidly. What a period or elegant development the fashion of the 1930s was.

A lot was happening in the men's fashion world too - but that is for another day. Gentlemen, you'll have to be patient a tiny bit longer. So sorry.

Obviously, there is a lot more to talk about in relation to the fashion of the 1930s and it will be appearing here slowly over the next few weeks. So do come back and check regularly and, if you have not already done it, sign up for our monthly E-zine to help you stay abreast of all the 1920s to 1950s fashion news.

Here's to the next time,

Katrin Du Pre